Located on the Ghisallo hill near the Italian Lake Como, is a chapel that dates back to 1632, named Madonna del Ghisallo, in full Santuario della Madonna del Ghisallo. In Italy, this little church is known as a pilgrimage church for cyclists. The chapel is in the town of Magreglio, halfway between Canzo and Regatola, and is part of the route of the Giro di Lombardia. Although the route is sometimes being changed, this chapel has never been left out. Each year when the peloton passes by, the bells ring.
In 1949 a priest named Ermelindo Vigano proposed to declare the Madonna del Ghisallo patroness of all cyclists. Pope Pius XII gave his consent. One might wonder “why cyclists”? According to the legend, the medieval count Ghisallo was attacked by highwaymen, when he saw a vision of Mary on an altar. He ran towards it, which turned out to be his salvation. Thus Madonna del Ghisallo became patroness of all travellers. Even though, bikes did not exist at that time,.just like the lonely traveller, a cyclist trying to escape his pursuers can use all the help he can get. With a sense for legends of the Virgin Mary and the cyclists passing this chapel, the two are easily linked. For years, cyclists have come to this chapel to ask for the Madonna’s protection. And maybe rightfully so, because here at the Ghisallo hill (754 m) a 10 km climb starts, at approximately 50 km from the finishing line. Currently, the church is adorned with cycling memorabilia, like the winners’ jerseys and bikes, as well as an eternal flame for the deceased cyclists. In front of the church entrance are statues of Fausto Coppi and Gino Bartali. In the church you can find the bike of the deceased Fabio Casartelli, a cyclist from this region. Surprisingly, his bike is in remarkable condition. He got killed in the Tour de France of 2005, during the descent of Col d’Aspet. Casartelli’s wife and son visited the Madonna del Ghisallo shortly after his death.
The bike on which Gino Bartali won the Tour de France in 1948, can be found across from Casartelli’s bike. He was 21 minutes behind the French favourite Louis Bobet, when they still had to go through the Alps. After an attempt on the life of the secretary of the Communist party, Italy feared a civil war. After consulting the Vatican, Prime Minister de Gasperi tried to find some diversion for the Italian people. Searching for a new hero, the devout catholic Bartali was asked to win a stage in the Tour. With astounding results: Bartali proved to be the strongest cyclist in the Alps and even ended up winning the Tour de France.
After seeing so many cycling memorabilia and with a plaque placed in front of the church entrance, it is clear; this chapel is dedicated to the passion and glory of cycling. When you visit the Como area, as a pilgrim of cyclists, seeing the inside of this church is a must, whether Catholic or not. Naturally by bike, however, be prepared for a steep climb (10 km, 14 %) from Bellagio, or a more gradual climb from Asso (9 km).
